Tuesday, 7 July 2009

Amaya Arzuaga: New Tides, New Universe.

Amaya Arzuarga described her Autumn/ Winter 09-10 collection as “a moon’s reaction of curved geometries and intuitions that glimpse the feminine creation”.

My poetic skills which are limited to Neruda and Rumi may not able to either grasp this phrase or understand the universe’s way of touching her designs but it’s not a moon that can I can see in her but a star. A spanish star.

Unlike Milan, Paris or London, Madrid is still a place where fashion never takes the risk. It sticks to the classic, safe and almost traditional ways albeit with a price distinctly European—high. If London is bohemia fused with glam rock ; Milan and Paris are all about glamour and creativity, Madrid is more or less Ralph Lauren with a tag price of a Dior.

Amaya’s challenge is to change all that. Well, maybe not change but to infuse these different styles in an eclectic mix, Spanish fashion has never seen before. Her geometrical patterns is a breathe of fresh air and the visual impact is never boring.

What sets her apart from other Spanish designers is her ability to manipulate her materials specifically the textile itself (which must be the result of her upbringing in a textile factory in the province of Burgos). She has even used a pioneering technique of using technological material like optic fibers (cut using laser) applied in cascades---same technique used by NASA, in treating her weaves.

I love how the pleats and patterns work perfectly on the dress without it making like a costume rather something than you can actually wear. Earthly colors of beige, green black and gray dominate the collection which worked perfectly with those sparkly leggings.

For me, this collection is homage to Origami in its highest form. Also, I could visualize the pleats as graceful, almost female waves rising as the forces of the Moon and Sun act on the ocean.

Alas, Amaya is the gravity that pulls the tide of Spanish fashion into an exciting shore.


(All photos from www.amayaarzuaga.com)


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