Sunday, 29 November 2009

Hercules and Orschel-Read my lips: Androgyny.



Spain definitely loves some ingenious androgyny. Hercules, the country's premiere men's fashion magazine and Vogue Spain feature top model Iris Strubegger for their December issues sporting a face that could launch a thousand eyebrows: Is it a she or a he?

Amusingly enough, Vogue which obviously a woman's magazine features Iris with a fresh, clean, make-up less face, sporting a sleek pompadour which highlights her to die for angular, perfectly chiseled face. Very manly, very masculine. On the other hand Hercules, which is a men's magazine features her in a more twisted way--as a woman looking like a man who looks like a woman. Makes sense? You decide for yourself. Looking closely at the photograph, you could even see the hair on her arms which made me think it was actually a male model on the cover!

Hercules is a biannual luxury fashion and style magazine for men. The publication is bilingual with almost 220 pages of top class brands, models and photographers in the planet.

In this issue of the said mag, they feature Balmain's Creative Director Christophe Decarnin, Adam Kimmel and Oscar De La Renta among others. They also pay tribute to the glory days of romantic Hollywood, cowboys and boys in camp (boyscouts camping I mean.). As expected in a men's fashion mag, you can find a lot of exceptionally beautiful young men in their underwear, a lot of skin, a lot of hair (in all parts you can imagine) and disappointly enough, a lot of black and white picture.

Don't get me wrong. I am an Avedon fan and I love black and white photographs especially when they are use sparingly in a magazine. However, sometimes when it gets too dark to actually see details of a piece of the clothing or too dark to visualise the total look of the image, a good subject goes to waste. I think sometime colors work for some pieces where black and white couldn't do justice at all.

The magazine costs six euros but it is definitely worth it. Here's a simple slide photo presentation to kick start your Monday.




As for the Vogue issue, let's save that for another entry.

That one I assure you is much more colorful than Hercules.

Speaking of ambiguity, Monseur Stefan Orschel-Read, the

man behind Lady Gaga's outfit when she appeared on German TV

program "Wetten Das" has once again blurred the boundary of sexuality

in fashion with his excruciatingly beautiful collection called

"Mourning for Orlando".


Photo: Lady Gaga wearing Orschel-Read Couture trousers in a

German TV program.


Orschel-Read's "Mourning" collection is a circus of fun, creativity

and pure talent. His tailoring is exquisite, the details are meticulous

and the use of different materials including fur, leather and everything in

between is just pure genius.


I Particularly love these headress/hats which, for some reason make me associate them with Japan and the whole Geisha culture. No, it's not the whitewashed faced models but the hats seem like what a geisha wig would look like on a bad day, or worst, a week without a shower.

Besos!

photos: Lady Gaga (google images), Orschel-Read couture from the designer's website, magazine photo owned by marbellastyle.


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